Imagine a hot, sunny day in Jakarta 1948 when H. Darwasa sold his first bowl of Soto Betawi. Perhaps most of your parents weren’t even born yet. Would he have thought that almost 70 years later, his legacy is still loved by people from different generations? Ask any soto hunter for a recommendation, and chances are Soto Roxy H. Darwasa is somewhere in the list.
True to its name, the flagship outlet is located around Roxy area, Jalan Tidore to be precise. It is housed in a humble non air-conditioned space with plenty of seats that are most likely full during lunch time. The open kitchen emits a wonderful, drool-inducing aroma all across the space, tickling your nose and evoking that “krr-krr” hunger sound from your belly. Staffs are busy walking here and there while carrying trays of soto. Cooks are occupied with stirring pots and chopping ingredients. It’s just another day at Soto Roxy H. Darwasa.
Similar to other soto places, Soto Roxy is fully customizable to your liking. Omnivores can stick to Soto Campur that contains a little bit of everything: meat, paru goreng (fried beef lungs), kikil (knuckles), and babat (tripe), topped with emping (melinjo chips), spring onions, and fried shallots. Soto Daging Goreng is another favorite, in which the meat is fried after braised, giving it a nice charred texture and smokey aroma. But of course feel free to order the soto any way you want it.
Now onto the most important feature: the broth. Unlike a couple other Soto Betawi places, Soto Roxy’s broth is more on the “cleaner” side. It uses coconut milk lightly, creating a soft milky flavor that highlights the taste of other ingredients. Not to mention somewhat friendlier on the cholesterol scale. Taste is personal, but this is indeed the kind of soto that I prefer: easy on the coconut milk, tender meat, plus there is paru goreng.
Soto Roxy H. Darwasa has become a household name in Jakarta’s culinary scene. Not only because of its good food, but also because friendly service that must have been instilled in the staffs’ work ethics throughout the years. With decades of experience and five additional outlets in Jabodetabek area, I believe Soto Roxy has what it takes to survive for a long time. Another seventy years, at least? ?
Soto Roxy H. Darwasa
Price Range: Soto starts at IDR 30K
Address: Jl. Tidore No. 2
Google Maps: Click Here
Other outlets: Gading Serpong, Alam Sutera, Cengkareng, Cibubur, Kelapa Gading
Photography by Lukas Manuel